How to Install, Use, Adjust & Replace Clipless Pedals
Our other clipless pedal guide — How to Choose Clipless Pedals — covers a few of the different clipless mountain bike systems on the market. Here, we’ll get into clipless cleat fit, adjustability, and how to navigate that nerve-wracking first day of clipping into your pedals and hitting the trail. There is a relatively straightforward process for fitting your cleats, but like our other foot-related guides, we recommend seeing a professional bike fitter at any of our bike shop locations if things feel off.
How to Install
Tools You'll Need:
>> Clipless Cleats, Clipless Shoes & Clipless Pedals
>> Pedal Wrench or 6/8mm Allen Key
>> 4mm Allen Key
>> Bike Grease
Step 1: Remove Old Pedals, and Install New Ones
Using your pedal wrench or 6/8mm hex, position yourself towards the front of the bike, and push the wrench forward, away from you, to loosen. Insert your new pedals and pull the wrench back, towards you, to tighten them on the bike. We recommend cleaning and greasing the pedal and crank arm threads every time you change pedals. See our guide on “How to Change your Bike Pedals” for more info.
Step 2: Prepare to Install your Cleats
Cleats, shoes, and any hardware. If you are installing SPD-SL cleats, your shoes should have a three-hole pattern or “Triangle.” If you are installing SPD, Crank Brothers, or other two-bolt cleats, your shoes should have two holes next to each other. Some shoes will have both, some will not.
Step 3: Position the Cleats and Install Any Shims
Position the cleats over the holes in your shoes. Recessed holes should always face up. Attach any shims or cleat adaptors as recommended by the manufacturer. SPD SL - Washers go inside the recessed hole SPD - Cleat Adapter goes on top of cleat Crank Brothers - Cleat plate goes on top of the cleat, shim goes under and contacts your shoe. Consult with Crank Brothers for information on shims and shoe compatibility.
Step 4: Install the Cleats Loosely
Equip your handy-dandy 4mm hex wrench. Insert the screws so they sit in the holes of the baseplate and lightly tighten so that your cleat can move back and forth slightly. Adjust the cleats’ positioning based on your determined fit. (see below for positioning, micro adjustments, and fit specifics.)
Step 5: Finalize the Cleat Install
Once your cleats are positioned correctly, lightly grease the screws and tighten all the way. Check your manufacturer for recommended tightening strength. If this isn’t your first rodeo, you may use Loctite thread locker (we recommend blue) for extra security.
Step 6: Positioning
Basic positioning requires some knowledge of body geometry. You'll need feet, a marker or tape, and an open mind. In your cycling socks, find the ball of your foot. Put your mountain bike shoes on and locate the ball of your foot again. Mark this point on the shoe, it will be the center point for your cleat. Attach the cleat and center it on the sole, with the point you marked in the middle of the cleat. The front of your cleat should point towards your big toe. Tighten bolts to the shoe. Boom, basic setup completed. Remember, you may need further adjustments (see "Micro Adjustments" below).
Micro Adjustments
Unlocking the Perfect Fit
Micro adjustments are key to making your cleats feel great. Nothing can replace the help of a professional, but these tips can help you troubleshoot any aches and pains to achieve a great fit.
When your cleats are attached to your shoes but not tightened all the way is the perfect time to explore fit options.
1. Fore/Aft Positioning
The fore/aft adjustment refers to how far forward or backward the cleat is positioned on your shoe. This is crucial because it impacts your pedaling mechanics, particularly the knee and hip angles. If your cleats are too far forward, you might experience knee strain, while positioning them too far back can lead to discomfort in the hips and lower back.
> Too Forward: Causes excess knee stress, potentially leading to discomfort or pain during longer rides.
> Too Far Back: Can lead to inefficient pedal strokes, as you’re likely relying more on your quads and less on the hamstrings.
To achieve the ideal position, many cyclists find that aligning the ball of their foot with the pedal axle is a good starting point, but every rider's body mechanics will differ. A small adjustment—moving the cleats 1-2mm forward or backward—can make a notable difference in comfort and performance.
2. Side-to-Side Positioning
Side-to-side adjustments determine how your foot sits in relation to the pedal, ensuring that you maintain an aligned and natural pedaling motion. The goal is to make sure your knees track in a straight line without undue pressure or discomfort on the outside or inside of your legs. In other words, your hips, knees, and ankles should be stacked on top eachtother in a line.
> Too Inward: When your cleats are positioned too close to the bike, it can cause your knees to move inward during each pedal stroke. This can create knee pain or discomfort over time.
> Too Outward: Having the cleat too far to the outside forces your knees to flare out, potentially causing strain on the hips and knees.
Adjusting side-to-side positioning should be done incrementally, often in small 1mm to 2mm shifts. You can use your knee tracking while pedaling to assess whether the adjustment is correct. Proper alignment typically means your knees remain straight or track slightly inward while pedaling.
3. Float (Lateral Movement)
Float refers to the degree of lateral movement (side-to-side) your foot has while clipped into the pedal. This adjustment allows your foot to rotate within the pedal system, offering a degree of freedom that can reduce stress on your knees and joints, especially for long-distance cyclists or those with previous knee injuries.
> More Float: Increasing the float allows more freedom of movement in the ankle and knee, which can be beneficial if you have knee or hip pain.
> Less Float: Reducing the float can help improve pedaling efficiency and alignment for riders who prefer a more locked-in feel.
Most clipless pedal systems allow for a float range between 0° and 15°, but finding your sweet spot is essential. For some, more float may relieve joint pain, while others may prefer a more rigid power transfer and control setup.
4. Angular Adjustment
Angular adjustment refers to the rotation angle of the cleats relative to the pedal. This adjustment is typically more about finding the natural foot position for efficient pedaling, ensuring the cleat allows for the right alignment of your foot in relation to the crank arm.
> Toe-In or Toe-Out: A small angular adjustment can help with discomfort caused by the alignment of your foot and knee. Adjusting the toe angle to point slightly inward or outward can align the foot and prevent unnatural stress on the joints.
The angular adjustment is often best tailored to how your feet naturally position when riding. Some riders have a neutral foot position, while others might find relief by angling their toes slightly inward or outward to align with their pedaling mechanics.
Easy Does It
Making these micro adjustments may seem subtle, but they can transform the feel of your ride. It’s important to make adjustments gradually, testing them during short rides to gauge comfort before committing to longer outings. Small changes can often have a significant impact, so don’t rush the process. Remember, our bodies are not perfectly symmetrical and each foot may be different. Listen to your body, adjust the cleats, and enjoy the smoother, more efficient pedaling that results from these finely-tuned details.
Remember, while there’s no one-size-fits-all approach, understanding the impact of each adjustment will help you dial in the perfect cleat position for your unique biomechanics. Happy riding!
Notes on Bike Fitting
These basic steps may be enough to get you rolling, but if you have past injuries, IT band problems, or tend to wear down one side of your street shoes quicker than the other, a professional bike fit is worth your time. Some bike fitting services fall under PT and can be covered by insurance, while the few hundred dollars you spend on others are well worth the money if done correctly. evo offers basic bike fitting and adjustments, reach out to your local tech for more info.
When Should You Replace Your Cleats?
Cleats should be replaced when they’re worn out. We know, crazy, right? Some classic signs of wear and tear include:
1. Difficulty clipping and unclipping that goes beyond clumsiness
2. Cracks
3. Visible signs of wear and tear
4. Thinning material or material breaking off
Some cleats have a recommended mileage to replace after, but if none of these signs stick out to you, we still recommend replacing your clipless cleats once a year to be safe.
If you are unsure whether your cleat is the problem, take your clipless system to a bike shop so they can inspect the pedals. Cleats are relatively cheap in the world of mountain biking gear. When in doubt, switch them out.
Let's Ride!
SAMMI BUSHMAN
Mountain Biker & Product Content WriterSammi is an avid recreator who divides her time between the coastal mountains of Washington and the dry desert of Utah. She enjoys riding endurance gravel races “for fun,” finding floam (flowy loam), and venturing into the backcountry on whatever pair of skis feels best with her boots that day.
SAMMI BUSHMAN
Mountain Biker & Product Content WriterSammi is an avid recreator who divides her time between the coastal mountains of Washington and the dry desert of Utah. She enjoys riding endurance gravel races “for fun,” finding floam (flowy loam), and venturing into the backcountry on whatever pair of skis feels best with her boots that day.