High Camp Day 1
After a rocky night of sleep for this land-locked guy (Sunny, on the other hand, lives for sleeping on boats), we headed into the main hotel for a huge buffet breakfast (finally, pickled and smoked fish galore) before our first day of ski touring. I see hungry campers absolutely destroying fresh loaves of bread, taking over 10 slices each. Then it occurs to me that they are stacking up sandwiches for a long day in the mountains. Sandwich stacks on the hill, these are my kind of people! We meet our guides and Norrona’s local ambassador Asbjorn Eggebo Naess, toss our gear in a van, and head up the valley. We hit the weather window perfectly, as it has been snowing and windy for a couple weeks and we are now getting the first couple days of blue sky in a while.
We park at what seems to be a small lumber yard in a beautiful valley of mostly small farms. This is the trailhead. It is still cold in the morning shade, so we layer up in Norrona and start skinning. We skin straight across a couple farmhouse yards, complete with chickens and goats, and head up into the alpine. We get above tree-line and it is hot in the sun, yet still windy in the more exposed stretches of our skin track. We take a couple sandwich and Kvikk Lunsj bar breaks, the Norwegian outdoor snack of choice. These are essentially better Kit Kat bars with informative outdoor educational messages inside.
Our group takes its final ascent up the ridgeline to be greeted with a view of the ocean on the other side. It is like nothing I have ever seen. One by one, we make nice turns down a steep, powdery slope with just a couple tomahawks here and there. Without much time to gawk at our turns, skins are back on, and we climb to the next peak. This one delivers a long run on either side of a river valley, one side in the sun, one in the shade. Frode sends it T-to-B on the sunny side and never looks back. I take the shady side and again the snow is good, really good. Our group converges at the bottom of the river valley and it’s all smiles and laughs galore, especially as one of our Austrian friends takes the final transition way to hot and explodes into the yard sale of the day.
It is now mid-afternoon and most of the group opts to call it and start the final descent to the cars, but with sore legs and fear of FOMO (fear of fear of missing out, it’s a thing), Sunny and I nudge each other into one more afternoon climb with Frode, Asbjorn, and our main guide. We climb straight up what seems like endless switchbacks, pushing the limits of my kick-turn skills. At the summit, another epic view with different terrain on all sides. At the bottom is what looks like a tiny village that can only be accessed in the summer. I think the trolls from Frozen probably live there (I have a 4-year old daughter, okay!). We head off the East side of the peak, dropping into a small chute with what can only be described as “variable” snow. It is too late in the day to go for the initial plan that is now a sun-baked chute on the next peak, so we traverse around to the west side of the first peak. As we traverse the snow goes from shaded boiler plate to crust on powder to spring corn in the direct sun. Time for some nice slushy turns as we hop our way through the small shrubs and head back into the lower woods. A couple gnarly creek crossings and an icy logging road later and we are skiing back through some farm yards, dropping off cobblestone walls as those same goats give us the stink-eye for treading on their turf.
That night, tired and happy, we catch the Northern Lights shining down the fjord.