DISCLAIMER: THIS GUIDE IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. IT IS NOT INTENDED AS A “DO IT YOURSELF” GUIDE TO ALPlINE TOURING BINDING MOUNTING, ADJUSTMENT AND/OR MAINTENANCE, NOR AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR PROFESSIONAL ADVICE AND SERVICE. ALWAYS HAVE YOUR ALPINE TOURING BINDINGS MOUNTED, ADJUSTED, SERVICED AND INSPECTED BY A CERTIFIED BINDING TECHNICIAN.
So you've decided that "Light is Right" and purchased a set of tech boots and bindings for a lighter weight ski touring option. They're mounted up and ready to go, but you've never actually stepped into them . . . and dang, they seem so tiny!
Relax. Lots of people have gone through the tech binding initiation process and survived to tell the tale. Tech bindings have a short but steep learning curve. Here are a few hints to help you get to know your new bindings.
Tech bindings, sometimes known by the brand name Dynafit, are ingenious, lightweight alpine touring bindings that rely on two sets of precision-machined pins to hold the toe and heel of your boot in place. The binding must be used with a special boot equipped with metal pin sockets molded into the toe and a screwed-on heel plate with deep molded indents in the heel. While skinning uphill, your toe is held in place by only the two front pins; when you want to descend, you step down to engage the two rear pins and lock the heel down. The rigid sole of your ski boot acts as the frame between the toe and heelpieces, saving weight.
You’ll need tech toe and heel fittings like these to use tech bindings
Tech bindings have only a fraction of the mass of alpine bindings, and people who haven’t used them sometimes find it hard to believe they’ll be reliable in the backcountry, but strong skiers have used them successfully in some of the most severe conditions on the planet, and chances are you can too.
Get familiar with the operation of your tech bindings on the carpet at home before your first outing. Practice clicking in and out, locking the toe lever, and using the different climbing levels. A bit of practice will help when you try them on snow for the first time.
After your bindings are mounted, check the lateral alignment of the boots (not while wearing them) by clicking the toes into the toe pieces and raising and lowering the heels a few times. With the heels in "ski" position (pins facing forward), the heel plate slots in your boots should line up perfectly with the pins. A millimeter or so to either side is okay, but the pins shouldn't hit any rubber sole material as they slide into the slots. If they don't line up properly, a qualified ski shop can sometimes correct the alignment by loosening the screws and re-tightening them in different sequences.
Check the gap between the boot heel and heelpiece with the boot clicked into “ski” position. Use the plastic spacer that comes with the bindings or a set of digital calipers to check this distance. This gap must be set accurately for the binding to function properly. All current Dynafit models require a 5.5 mm gap, while some other models and brands (Plum, for instance) require 4.0 mm spacing. Older Vertical and Comfort models, which originally specified a 6 mm gap, should also be set to 5.5 mm. G3 Onyx bindings require a 6 mm gap. Some newer bindings with heel elasticity should be set closer - the Dynafit Beast 16 and 14, for example, uses a negligible .5 mm gap. Ask a certified technician if you are uncertain about the proper adjustment of your bindings.
Note: There are two versions of the Dynafit 5.5 mm spacer. The older model measures 5.5 mm between the two "bumps" while the new model must be compressed halfway between heel and binding to measure 5.5 mm.
Dynafit 4 mm spacer shown with a Plum Guide heelpiece
Dynafit gap tools. New (above) is correctly compressed to 5.5 mm in
photo, old (below) version is 5.5 mm between the bumps above arrow
Tech bindings require a bit more skill to put on than regular step-in ski bindings, but you'll get the hang of it with a little practice. There are several common ways of getting into a tech toe, including stepping straight down (necessary with newer Dynafit Radical toes), as well as engaging one toe pin first, then rolling the boot flat so the other toe pin clicks in (popular with some other brands and older Dynafit models). Some people prefer to position their boots against the heelpiece first, then step down on the toe, and many people use different techniques depending on the situation. G3 Onyx toe pieces have a default "closed" position, so the toe lever must be held down with a pole or your hand in order to open the jaws and engage the toe pins. Some boots come with toe alignment markers molded into the toes, if you don’t have these you can draw marks directly over the toe sockets on your boots with a Sharpie so you know where the toe piece pins should line up.
After the toe piece arms close and the pins are in the boot sockets, gently raise and lower your boot heel a few times to "seat" the pins
. If there is snow or debris in the way, this action will cause the pins to bore into the sockets and force extraneous matter out. If you want to ski, twist the heelpiece so the pins face forward and step down hard so the pins click into the slots in the heel of your boot.
Note: Dynafit Beast, Fritschi Vipec and G3 Onyx heels do not rotate to switch between ski and tour modes, but move back and forth on a track to clear or engage the boot heel.
Move boot heel up and down a few times after stepping in Dynafit heel with boot in “ski” position
It’s normal for the boot to be suspended above the ski supported only by the four pins when in ski mode. It might look precarious, especially if you don’t have ski brakes attached, but it’s the way the binding is designed to work.
If you want to skin, click into the toe, making sure the heel is turned to one of the climbing positions (pins turned away from the forward position). Then "lock" the toe into the climbing position by pulling up on the toe lever until you hear a series of audible clicks. Depending on your weight, three to four clicks is normally enough for security. If you don't hear the full number of clicks, it probably means you have dirt, ice or snow blocking the system, either in the pin/socket interface or under the toe arms. Take the ski off and check. Using the binding for skinning without fully locked toes can result in the ski releasing when you don’t want it to. (Note: The Dynafit Beast 16 toe locks by pushing the lever forward until it is flat to the ski surface)
Use your heel risers to adjust to varying levels of steepness while you skin. For steep terrain, a high position makes it easier on your legs, helps prevent heel blisters, and enables better traction. For flat or rolling terrain, a low position is usually best.
Riser positions: low, medium and high – top row is Speed Radical, bottom is Speed Classic – note that the Speed Classic heel is twisted to give different riser heights while the Radical remains in the same position
(Note: Some brands or models of tech bindings have toes that go into lock mode automatically when you step in, or a smooth locking lever that produces no clicks. If you own these bindings, you need to be aware of their quirks).
All tech manufacturers recommend that you unlock the toes (so the lever is down and parallel to the ski) for skiing, and lateral release values are calculated with the lever in this position. Skiing with the toe lever in the locked position increases the force needed for a lateral release, but does not affect forward release. If you ski with your toes locked, you risk unreliable lateral release when you need it.
Dynafit Radical toe in locked position Dynafit Radical toe in unlocked position
While most tech models use a set of numbers for the release values that appear to mirror alpine binding DIN settings, there is currently no industry standard for certifying tech binding difficulty of release and these numbers are only approximate equivalents.
Both vertical (forward) and lateral (sideways) release values are set at the heelpiece, but with separate screws. Release value numbers are printed on the heelpiece body; vertical release is indicated by the moving plastic tab at top while lateral release is indicated by where the sharp edge of the metal cap lines up with the markings (see photo).
In practice, tech bindings will perform differently than alpine bindings during release, especially in the forward (vertical) plane. Elasticity may also not be the same as alpine bindings, so be aware that your tech binding may not offer the same level of retention in extreme conditions. If in doubt, work up to high speeds and air gradually.
Learning curve aside, most people who transition to tech bindings find that the light weight and smoothness of operation while skinning improve the overall ski touring experience immensely, and we’re guessing you will too.
Tech binding quick tips
- Check that the toes are aligned properly and the heel pins engage correctly.
- Spray under the toe arms periodically with silicone spray to reduce snow and ice buildup.
- Raise and lower the heel of your boot a few times when engaging the toe to make sure the interface is clear of debris.
- Make sure your toes are fully "locked" before skinning. If the toe won’t lock fully, check for debris in the boot toe sockets or under the binding toe arms.
- If ice does collect under the toe arms, hold the ski upright and snap the toe open and closed a few times without the boot to remove it (wear gloves so your fingers don’t get pinched). If this isn’t enough to break up and remove the ice, use a multi-tool or similar pointed object to get it out.
- Forward (vertical) and lateral (horizontal) release values are set with different screws, and are not necessarily equal to alpine DIN values with the same number. Start with release values that are familiar, and be prepared to adjust them if needed.
- Dynafit Radical (the newest model) heels are only meant to be rotated in a clockwise direction – turn them ¼ turn to skin, then another ¾ turn in the same direction to return to ski position.
- Dynafit Vertical heels are designed to be rotated with the tip of a ski pole inserted into the riser “volcano” (Radical heels are not) but proper technique is important to avoid breaking the top plate. Use an arcing motion rather than pulling straight back on your pole.
- Dynafit Beast, Fritschi Vipec and G3 Onyx heels move rearward rather than rotating for skinning.
- G3 ION heels may be rotated in either direction, and the lifters function equally in either posiiton.
Skinning quick tips
- Slide your feet along the snow surface for efficiency rather than picking them up.
- When it gets steep or you start to slip backwards, keep your weight back on your heels for better traction. Stand up straight and think about "pulling up your toes." This isn’t intuitive for most people, but it works.
- Keep your angle of ascent moderate and consistent whenever possible. If you’re following, stay in the skintrack and take your turn breaking trail when the leader gets tired.
- Use your climbing lifters when it gets steep. Using them puts less strain on your hamstrings and helps pressure the back of the ski for better traction.
- Learn and practice your uphill kickturn technique, starting with mellow terrain and working up to steeps. Kickturns on 45˚ slopes in two feet of powder are half Tai Chi and half ballet, but still faster than bootpacking.
- When transitioning in deep snow, pack out a flat area and take off only one ski at a time to maintain a solid platform.
**You should carry an avalanche beacon
when travelling in avalanche terrain and know how to use them. Backcountry travel requires an acceptance of the risks involved (avalanches are not the only danger) and implies a willingness to take responsibility for educating oneself about these dangers and ways to mitigate them. We recommend that backcountry travelers take an AIARE Level One class or the equivalent, and practice the skills they learn there regularly with their partners. Here are some great resources for avalanche safety education: